Most bakers know that a sweltering summer season kitchen can wreak havoc on a recipe, however a lesser-known reality is that chilly winter kitchens could cause simply as a lot bother—albeit of a unique kind. When kitchen temperatures dip beneath 70°F (21°C), pie and cookie doughs can find yourself dry and crumbly, layer desserts can dome and end up riddled with tunnels and holes, buttercreams can curdle, and breads can refuse to rise.
These points can manifest in refined methods when it is solely 68°F—so refined that you could be merely write them off as a fluke—however they will develop extra excessive because the temperature drops. It is not simply that there is a chill within the air; it is that any given thermostat setting represents the temperature of our pantry staples and tools, like flour, sugar, and mixing bowls.
That is why cranking up the warmth or firing up the oven is not an answer. The air temperature might immediately heat to a toasty 72°F, however deep in your pantry, that bag of flour will nonetheless be 65°F (or regardless of the case could also be). Fortuitously, you may sidestep these issues altogether if you realize which methods they’re prone to have an effect on.
Creaming Technique
Many cake and cookie recipes will name for creaming the butter and sugar till “fluffy and lightweight.” The creaming course of will take for much longer than indicated once you’re working with chilly elements and tools, so abandon any estimated timetable and persist with the visible cues. Give it time for the butter and sugar to melt and aerate—in any other case, even a easy espresso cake can wind up dense and gummy alongside the underside, or else pocked with holes.
If a kitchen is actually chilly, beneath 65°F (18°C), the method will possible stall out, leaving the butter and sugar smeared across the bowl as a thick, heavy paste that may refuse to budge. In that case, I will get away my culinary torch to hit the blending bowl with a delicate flame (three cheers for stainless-steel!) to assist loosen the butter. If you do not have one, seize a hair dryer, or set the bowl over a steaming water tub for only a few seconds to melt, not soften, the butter.
Alternatively, warming the sugar to about 70°F earlier than creaming may also help mimic the circumstances of a extra temperate kitchen. Merely pop a dish of sugar right into a low oven for a minute or two, and let it calm down for those who overshoot that concentrate on temperature. And for those who occur to neglect about it, don’t fret—that is how I “invented” toasted sugar.
Emulsifying Eggs
Within the realm of baking, most recipes name for “room-temperature” eggs, however the soiled secret of recipe growth is that “room temperature” often means 70°F. So, whatever the precise temperature in your kitchen, that is the temperature you need to goal for when warming up the eggs. In a bowl of sizzling faucet water (say, 110°F/43°C), it is going to take about three minutes to heat up as many eggs.
A lot of my cookie recipes (corresponding to my old school chocolate chip cookies) might name for eggs “straight from the fridge” as a technique of controlling dough temperature to maintain issues cool. In fact, that is not vital in a chilly atmosphere, so contemplate warming the eggs to 70°F for those who need assistance offsetting the results of including chilly elements, like flour and chocolate, in a while.
Kneading Pastry
It is tempting to suppose {that a} pie dough wants extra water when it feels stiff, crumbly, and dry in winter months. However once you’re coping with issues brought on by environmental circumstances, altering the components will not deal with the underlying difficulty; it will solely create new issues. In pie dough, for instance, extra water means extra gluten growth, and that makes pie doughs robust and vulnerable to shrinking as they bake. So please, do not alter the recipe—alter the dough temperature.
This may be performed by merely utilizing 70°F water as a substitute of the chilly water most recipes name for. If it is actually frigid in your kitchen, warming the flour to about 70°F may also help, too—toss it in a low oven, and let it calm down for those who overshoot that purpose. The perfect working temperature for pie dough is about 68°F (20°C), so the mixture of tepid flour and chilly butter ought to common proper out. If the deed is already performed, and also you’re caught with a chilly dough that cracks and crumbles when rolled, let it sit in a barely heat atmosphere till it reaches about 68°F, then strive once more.
Whipping Buttercream
Whether or not you are making a traditional Swiss meringue buttercream or the custard-based cream cheese buttercream from my e-book, a chilly buttercream is a curdled buttercream. Even after they do not appear to be cottage cheese, chilly buttercreams have a greasy mouthfeel, and their stiff consistency makes them tough to unfold over a cake.
If that occurs to you, place the bowl of buttercream over a steaming water tub till it begins to soften across the edges, then return it to the stand mixer and whip till easy. This may be repeated as wanted to attain a superbly easy, silky-soft consistency.
Proofing Bread
Most recipes for yeast-raised breads embody particulars for creating the best proofing atmosphere, however many others name for proofing the bread at room temperature. When that falls effectively beneath 70°F, the dough will take for much longer to rise, which is ok by me. My desire is to glide and pay nearer consideration to a recipe’s visible cues, corresponding to when my cinnamon roll dough rises till it is gentle sufficient to retain a shallow impression when gently poked.
If you would like to hurry issues up in a yeast-raised dough, strive bringing the flour to about 70°F earlier than getting began. Hotter liquids may also help, too, however that may be a riskier transfer, because it has the potential to hurt the yeast. In any other case, your finest wager is to create a hotter atmosphere for the dough. My favourite trick is to microwave a mug of water till it is boiling-hot, then flip off the microwave and pop within the bowl of dough, basically turning the microwave itself right into a cheater’s proof field.
With any of those steps, the purpose is to not get issues sizzling however to extra intently mimic the circumstances of a 70°F atmosphere, so restraint is vital. Because the underlying downside is a baking atmosphere that is just a bit chilly, there is not any must go to extremes. A mild nudge by just a few levels in the precise path is all we have to conquer the chilly.