I’m a reasonably cussed latke prepare dinner. Even nicely right into a Hanukkah get together, when others have graciously provided to step in on the range or advised me there are, the truth is, already sufficient latkes to feed a military of Macabees, I persevere at my job. Name me a perfectionist. Name me a kvetcher. However I’ve loads of opinions about making latkes and I’ll see them by way of.
I perceive that not everybody shares that zeal. And I get that frying a batch of latkes can depart your own home smelling like grease and onions for weeks (a Hanukkah miracle!) and create a heck of a large number. For anybody who prefers to not fry their very own latkes, there are — a welcome shock to me — some nice, pre-cooked choices on the market. You’ll be able to purchase potato pancakes from delis all around the nation, together with notable names like Manny’s Deli and Russ & Daughters, through Goldbelly. And there are just a few packaged manufacturers in grocery freezer aisles too. Armed with apple sauce and bitter cream, I gathered a number of the Eater workforce to style by way of a number of the prime contenders.
Word: Almost all of the latkes arrived on the similar time and had been saved collectively, first in a freezer after which defrosted in a fridge. Whereas some manufacturers beneficial reheating with a frying pan or oven, the Eater workplace is barely outfitted with a toaster oven, in order that’s what we used.
OUR FAVORITES
Russ & Daughters
New York
It shouldn’t shock anybody to see Russ & Daughters amongst our favourite latkes. The thick, crispy pucks had been a wholesome dimension. A torrent of tight potato strips burst forth from the within, however there was sufficient binder in there to maintain the shreds from spilling all around the plate. Even somebody who hates the phrase “mouthfeel” had to make use of it to go with the feel.
Kenny & Ziggy’s Delicatessen
Houston
Most of the latkes delivered to our New York workplace didn’t arrive in nice situation, however Kenny & Ziggy’s was an exception — the Texan latkes confirmed up able to play. One taster described them because the aesthetic Platonic best of latke. Although some discovered them a bit too salty, that additional sodium helped convey out the latkes’ sturdy flavors and accentuated their hefty crust.
Barney Greengrass
New York
Seems could be deceiving. Living proof: The Barney Greengrass latkes, that are formed a bit of an excessive amount of like pickled cow tongues for consolation. However when you get previous that unsettling affiliation, you’ll be rewarded with a light-weight, fluffy inside. The flavour was oniony and a contact candy, with a noticeable natural kick.
Zabar’s
New York
After a supply snafu, the Zabar’s latkes virtually didn’t make it to the Eater tasting, which might have left a large gap in our lineup. Fortunately, the spuds aligned, and we are able to affirm that Zabar’s makes a pleasingly crunchy latke whose potato shreds are properly textured and whose flavors and salt are dialed in. A strong contender.
Golden Potato Pancakes
In shops
The puny pucks of potato in a pack of Goldens (say that 10 instances quick) could not appear like a lot, however they conceal some stunning taste. The inside was creamy and the outside crispy, virtually like a mashed potato dumpling. The flavors had been balanced and the latkes reheated nicely. Seems Golden is the little latke that would.
THE REST
Linda’s Connoisseur Latkes
Los Angeles
We don’t know who Linda is however she’s acquired the Goldbelly market cornered. A fast seek for “latkes” on the location turns up a dozen listings for all method of Linda’s latkes: large or small, potato or candy potato, gluten-free or inexperienced onion. The usual latkes we ordered reminded us of McDonald’s hash browns, although significantly lighter in shade, and with potato shreds that didn’t maintain collectively very nicely. A bland taste upfront and a peculiar, bitter aftertaste turned us off this one.
Zingerman’s Delicatessen
Ann Arbor, Michigan
One tester, who spent some teenage years making latkes within the kitchens at Zingerman’s, described the greasy sheen on these latkes, recent from their vacuum-sealed chamber, as having an afterbirth-like look. The tasting kind of went downhill from there. An excessive amount of binder prompted the latkes to turn into smooth and spongy, and the tasteless taste didn’t redeem the aesthetic issues.
Mile Finish Deli
New York
Mile Finish’s latkes, visibly speckled with flecks of herbs, look virtually like veggie patties, with a barely orange however not unattractive tinge. The shredded inside felt a bit of dry, although in some way the latke additionally left an oily aftertaste (and that’s saying one thing for a latke). General, it won’t be value writing dwelling to Montreal about this one.
Attman’s Deli
Baltimore
Slicing into an Attman’s latke was like opening the again finish of a paper shredder. With out sufficient binder, the potato shreds shortly fell aside. Sadly the flavour wasn’t a lot better; somebody described it because the musty essence of a Ramada Inn. (It in all probability didn’t assist that the latkes had been shipped to New York in leaky paper takeout containers.)
Manny’s Deli
Chicago
We’re a bit confused by the Manny’s latkes. With their distinctly yellow tinge and gummy texture, they virtually gave the impression to be cornbread masquerading as latkes. The potato taste isn’t horrible, but it surely’s onerous to get previous the consistency.
Dealer Joe’s
In shops
At first we thought that Dealer Joe’s had merely slapped its brand on a bundle of Golden latkes, as they do with some gadgets. The latkes had been the identical dimension and form because the Goldens, however one chunk instantly separated the wheat from the chaff (or the spud from the pores and skin on this case). Not solely had been TJ’s latkes totally different, they weren’t fairly nearly as good as their generic counterparts. Whereas there was a pleasant serving to of onions, the general taste was metallic, which gave approach to a bitter aftertaste. Which isn’t precisely what we’re after after we’re celebrating the Competition of Lights.