Yearly, U.S. customers throw out greater than 34 billion kilos of used textiles. Of that, customers with larger incomes generate about 76 % extra clothes waste than these with decrease incomes, based on Boston College’s Faculty of Public Well being. As soon as discarded, 66 % of those textiles are despatched to landfills to decompose (some rapidly, others over lots of of years).
Whereas textile waste and overconsumption might have been missed previously, at the moment’s customers have gotten extra eco-conscious concerning the clothes they buy and put on, prompting the style trade to actively search sustainable options.
One different, not too long ago dropped at gentle by Pamela Morris, chief government officer and founding father of the clothes model Paloma St. James, is a “new paradigm” of sustainable luxurious trend referred to as modularity. This progressive design idea permits clothes to be reconfigured into totally different seems to be and kinds, extending its lifespan in a client’s wardrobe.
In dialog, Morris discusses why modularity is on the core of her model’s mission (which formally launches within the spring of 2025) and the way it’s serving to sustainably redefine trend.
WWD: Ranging from the highest, how did you get your begin in trend?
Pamela Morris: Style has all the time been an intrinsic a part of my life for so long as I can keep in mind. I grew up sitting at my grandmother’s ft as she hand-stitched clothes (she’d typically give me scraps to make garments for my child dolls). I nonetheless keep in mind studying to make a ruffle — feeling the pull of the thread and the magic in my eyes as the material reworked.
My reminiscences additionally embody admiring my mom’s timeless wardrobe, particularly a floral silk matching skirt set by Adrienne Vittadini. I will need to have spent hours inspecting it, making an attempt to grasp how a single outfit may really feel so elegant and alive. That’s once I realized the connection between what we put on and the way we current ourselves to the world.
That curiosity set me on a journey to discover trend in each its inventive and technical types. After incomes a level in artwork from the College of Georgia and honing my craft with a newly launched certificates program from Parsons, I needed to go deeper. That’s when [I decided] to journey to Milan for a pattern-making class, to Jaipur for block printing, to Mumbai for beadwork and embroidery, to Vietnam for silk-making, to Peru for cotton sourcing and to Argentina for leatherwork. Alongside the way in which, I supplemented my studying with “YouTube College” and programs on Coursera.
This mix of artwork, technical mastery and cultural appreciation has formed my method to trend.
WWD: What 12 months did you launch Paloma St. James, and what trade want impressed you to create the model?
P.M.: I launched Paloma St. James in 2013 with a need to problem the norms of the luxurious trend trade. We started by creating washable workwear for girls, specializing in impeccably designed items that bridged the hole between sustainability and luxurious — two ideas typically seen as mutually unique.
In 2021, we took a daring step ahead, relaunching Paloma St. James as the primary luxurious model to introduce a whole modular clothes line. This evolution was impressed by a rising demand for versatility and performance in trend.
My mission is to drive a cultural shift in trend by creating an everlasting wardrobe by modular design. The distinction between clothes design and trend design is huge, although they could seem comparable. Clothes design is created irrespective of tradition, whereas trend design defines, refines or interprets tradition in a manner that adjustments the ambiance.
With modularity on the coronary heart of our relaunch, we’ve pioneered designs that permit people to create a number of seems to be from fewer items, championing the thought of doing extra with much less. This method aligns with sustainable practices and redefines luxurious by prioritizing timelessness, performance and private expression.
WWD: Why is sustainability such a core a part of your model’s ethos and your private beliefs?
P.M.: Sustainability is deeply private to me, rooted in each my upbringing and my values as a designer. As a girl of coloration, I grew up in a tradition the place sustainability was second nature — doing extra with much less wasn’t a alternative; it was a lifestyle. This ingrained resourcefulness taught me to understand effectivity, high quality and intentionality. From an early age, I realized to worth items that lasted and might be reimagined, a mindset that now shapes my method to luxurious modular trend.
To me, sustainability is a accountability — one which goes past environmental impression to making sure a greater future for generations to come back. I imagine that luxurious and sustainability can — and will — coexist. By means of Paloma St. James, my objective is to redefine luxurious by creating clothes which can be timeless, versatile and thoughtfully crafted to reduce waste whereas maximizing worth.
WWD: How do you method sourcing supplies? Are there particular practices or partnerships you depend on to make sure your supplies align together with your moral and environmental requirements?
P.M.: I imagine that small is all the time higher. There’s an innate sustainability in an organization that can’t mass produce. That mentioned, when sourcing supplies I hunt down family-owned companies which can be generational, the place craftsmanship and pleasure are on the coronary heart of what they do. I deliberately keep away from hyper-capitalism, focusing as an alternative on supporting makers who worth high quality over amount.
This method has led me, typically by chance, to a number of the best materials on the earth. Many of those sources usually are not commercially recognized, however a number of produce small batches for famend trend homes. By prioritizing these traits in my collaborations, I’m in a position to uphold a dedication to authenticity, sustainability and unparalleled craftsmanship.
WWD: In a latest weblog submit, you talked about that modularity is the important thing to sustainability. Are you able to elaborate on how this method can contribute to a extra sustainable trend trade?
P.M.: Modularity instantly addresses a number of the most urgent points within the trend trade: Overproduction, waste and the countless cycle of overconsumption. Modularity provides a sensible, forward-thinking answer by reimagining how clothes is designed, produced and worn.
For instance, a single modular garment can rework into a number of seems to be by interchangeable, attachable or removable components. A modular costume with detachable sleeves or layers can effortlessly shift from an informal daytime outfit to a sublime night ensemble. This reduces the necessity for a number of single-purpose clothes, decreasing manufacturing calls for and curbing waste.
On this manner, modular trend promotes aware consumption, minimizes manufacturing calls for and curbs environmental impression. By specializing in timeless, versatile designs, modularity disrupts fast-fashion cycles, conserves sources and reduces carbon footprints.
WWD: How are you incorporating modularity into your designs, and what impression do you hope it can have on client conduct and the trade as an entire?
P.M.: At Paloma St. James, modularity is on the core of our designs. Every bit is thoughtfully crafted with interchangeable and multifunctional components, permitting a single garment to be styled in numerous methods. For instance, a blazer may characteristic removable panels, whereas a costume can seamlessly rework from daywear to night magnificence with a easy adjustment. This method encourages customers to view their wardrobe as an funding, prioritizing high quality and flexibility over amount.
On a broader scale, I hope modularity evokes a shift within the trade towards extra intentional manufacturing and consumption. By demonstrating how fewer, well-made clothes can create countless prospects, we purpose to redefine what it means to buy, costume and dwell sustainably.
WWD: How can modularity assist cut back and even eradicate overproduction within the trend trade?
P.M.: Mindset is essential in any setting. If we will shift one mindset 100 million instances, we will actually change the world as people.
Modularity instantly tackles overproduction by selling the concept clothes ought to serve a number of functions, lowering the necessity for extra stock. As a substitute of manufacturing numerous variations of a single merchandise to satisfy numerous calls for, manufacturers can design modular items that evolve with the wearer’s wants. This method, mixed with responsive buyer suggestions and subscription companies, considerably reduces cloth and garment waste.
Modularity additionally aligns seamlessly with a made-to-order or limited-production mannequin, the place provide is decided by client demand, minimizing unsold stock. This flexibility permits producers to streamline manufacturing, cut back waste and keep away from the pitfalls of overstock.
It’s a step towards a extra considerate and resource-efficient method to trend, addressing one of many trade’s most urgent challenges whereas inspiring a shift towards sustainability and intentional consumption.
WWD: Does this method affect how manufacturers handle stock or reply to altering client calls for?
P.M.: Completely. Modularity has the potential to revolutionize how manufacturers handle stock. By designing clothes that cater to numerous styling preferences inside a single piece, manufacturers can transfer away from fast-changing developments and give attention to creating timeless collections that endure.
This method additionally enhances agility. For instance, a modular assortment might be refreshed with new components — reminiscent of removable collars or sleeves — with out requiring a whole overhaul of the product line. This reduces waste whereas permitting manufacturers to reply rapidly to shifting client calls for, all with out contributing to overproduction.
WWD: There’s typically a false impression {that a} garment can solely be worn a handful of instances earlier than it feels outdated. How do you problem this mindset by your designs, and what methods do you utilize to make sure your items stay timeless and really feel luxurious over time?
P.M.: This mindset, fueled by quick trend and social media, is without doubt one of the greatest challenges we face. At Paloma St. James, we deal with this by designing timeless items that prioritize craftsmanship, high quality and flexibility. Every garment is thoughtfully created with enduring fashion in thoughts, permitting it to transcend fleeting developments.
We additionally try to assist prospects view their wardrobe as a set of significant investments somewhat than disposable objects. For instance, a modular piece can rework for various events, making it really feel contemporary and thrilling with each put on. By emphasizing versatility, we encourage customers to maneuver away from the notion that “new equals higher” and embrace the great thing about lasting design.
WWD: As we method 2025, what’s your high prediction for the way forward for the style trade? How do you assume different manufacturers can enhance their efforts towards sustainability?
P.M.: It’s telling that the trade is shifting towards a extra completely inclusive setting. This technology needs to assist manufacturers that provide one thing for everybody, at each value level. Luxurious can be redefined, with a robust give attention to small manufacturers and craftsmanship.
The way forward for trend lies in a fusion of know-how, craftsmanship and sustainability. Digital improvements like NFTs and AI can assist manufacturers create extra customized and environment friendly options, whereas conventional methods guarantee authenticity and high quality.
To really make an impression, manufacturers should embrace transparency, cut back overproduction and give attention to creating items with function. Collaboration throughout the availability chain can be key to reaching these objectives.