After seeing posts from Agi’s Counter in New York Metropolis pop onto his Instagram Discover web page, chef Jeremy Fox felt compelled to message its chef, Jeremy Salamon. “I used to be like, I believe we’re soulmates or one thing,” remembers Fox, the chef and proprietor of Los Angeles’s Birdie G’s and Rustic Canyon. Salamon’s meals reminded Fox of eating places he reveres: Prune, Zuni Cafe, Cafe Mutton.
The 2 grew to become buddies and met for the primary time when Fox was visiting NYC final fall. When planning out the promotion of his debut cookbook, Second Technology: Hungarian and Jewish Classics Reimagined for the Fashionable Desk (out now from Harvest), Salamon reached out to Fox a few dinner at Birdie G’s throughout his guide tour.
That dinner, which came about on October 1, introduced Agi’s hits — like rooster liver mousse with grapes on Pullman bread, and cheesecake topped with olive oil — to Birdie G’s, which rounded out the menu with its personal dishes. It was a pure pairing: Each eating places draw on their cooks’ grandmothers as inspiration for each the meals and the identify (Salamon’s is Agi, Fox’s is Gladys). Later that month, Fox’s different restaurant, Rustic Canyon, additionally hosted a dinner that includes Joe Yonan’s Mastering the Artwork of Plant-Based mostly Cooking.
For some cookbook authors, restaurant collaborations like these have grow to be commonplace elements of the guide tour, an extension of the current collab pattern. This appears very true for restaurant cooks like Salamon. When Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson of LA’s Kismet launched their cookbook of the identical identify earlier this yr, they did two nights of service at Birdie’s in Austin. And this fall, Renee Erickson of Seattle’s Sea Creatures restaurant group has collaborated with eating places throughout the nation together with Row 34 in Boston, Saint Julivert in NYC, and the Progress in San Francisco for her new cookbook, Daylight & Breadcrumbs.
This strategy isn’t restricted to restaurant cooks: Lately, authors like Betty Liu, Khushbu Shah, Rebekah Peppler, and Jon Kung have additionally leaned on their food-world connections throughout their guide excursions. For each writer and restaurant, the cookbook dinner is a strategic play towards networking and cross-promotion. For diners, the profit is twofold: dinner, after all, but additionally the chance to vet a cookbook by consuming from it first. Ideally, they’ll just like the meals sufficient to purchase it.
As with Salamon’s Second Technology dinner, a few of these collaborations depend on a culinary affinity between cooks. Betty Liu spent publication day for her cookbook The Chinese language Method on the New York Chinese language restaurant Tolo (it had additionally hosted a dinner for Kung’s Kung Meals in June), which supplied 5 recipes from the guide, together with a congee with watercress puree and steamed cod with black garlic sauce.
These dishes have been, for essentially the most half, recreated true to Liu’s recipes, however with minor tweaks higher suited to the restaurant setting. Whereas Liu asks house cooks to make a hyper-simple sauce by mashing black garlic into browned butter, for instance, Tolo’s chef-owner Ron Yan gave the concept a restaurant-y zhuzh by emulsifying the sauce as a substitute.
Some collaborations mash up extra disparate cuisines. For the discharge of Amrikan, her cookbook in regards to the Indian American diaspora, Khushbu Shah spent a lot of her guide tour internet hosting “Indian pizza events” at eating places nationwide, together with New York’s Lord’s, D.C.’s Oyster Oyster, and Seattle’s Musang. A current partnership with New Orleans’s Turkey and the Wolf featured po’boys served with the guide’s kale pakoras and a riff on Shah’s crispy paneer sandwich, made with mozzarella sticks.
In relation to menu improvement for these collaborations, “we’ve conversations with the oldsters which are internet hosting, and I’ll recommend issues, after which they’ll interpret it into their very own language of how their restaurant features,” says Erickson. Along with having been a visitor chef, she hosts cooks like Salamon, who held a cookbook dinner at Erickson’s restaurant the Whale Wins.
That open-minded strategy mirrors how Erickson hopes folks will use her cookbooks. “For me, writing a cookbook isn’t to say, you do it this manner,” she says. “It’s to provide an concept to the world and hope folks may be impressed to adapt it into their life.”
Turning books into all-encompassing experiences is a rising need past the cookbook house: A brand new firm referred to as 831 Tales desires to construct a life-style across the romance novels that it’s going to additionally publish. Its founders have mused that this might imply meet-ups, spin-off content material, and merch that mirrors clothes talked about within the books.
From the restaurant finish, internet hosting visitor cooks is “not precisely essentially the most worthwhile factor,” Erickson says. Typically, her eating places would possibly schedule them on nights when gross sales are softer to be able to deliver in additional visitors; a visitor chef will also be a approach to supply one thing totally different to previous regulars.
However the sensible purpose why these partnerships have grow to be so widespread is that they’re mutually helpful promotion. The cookbook writer — Salamon, for instance — will get to cook dinner for a brand new viewers. It may be far-away followers who haven’t but gotten an opportunity to go to New York to go to Agi’s; it may be Birdie G’s diners who wish to attempt one thing barely totally different throughout the trappings of a spot they already know. Birdie G’s, in the meantime, will get traction inside and new curiosity from Agi’s and Salamon’s current followers — perhaps Agi’s devotees put the restaurant on their record for the subsequent time they’re in LA.
“Individuals get to expertise [Salamon’s] meals, hopefully they purchase the guide after which grow to be a follower afterward,” says Karly Stillman, the publicist behind Second Technology. “It lends itself to additional relationships.”
For cooks like Erickson and Fox, that’s the first motivator of those collaborative cookbook dinners. “We’re simply actually excited for the prospect to see one other viewpoint and soak up what we will from them,” Fox says. It’s not the funds or the followers, however the networking: the power to work with new cooks, supply that chance to their employees, and supply visitors with real hospitality. It’s exhausting to do a guide tour; a welcoming kitchen is a delicate place to land.