In March, the TikTok creator Meredith Hayden, higher often called Wishbone Kitchen, uploaded a video about her tedious and dear expertise attempting to trace down a replica of Martha Stewart’s Entertaining, the meals and life-style mogul’s first e book, printed in 1982.
Hayden defined that she discovered one copy of the e book, gently used and with torn edges, for $400, earlier than dropping 4 bidding wars till she lastly received her fingers on a replica. In a single, her bid hit over $112, she mentioned. Hayden posted about this solely after getting the e book, she famous, in order to not add to her competitors much more.
Hayden’s curiosity in Entertaining was impressed by CNN’s Martha Stewart docuseries that dropped in January. She wished it, she defined, as analysis for the cookbook she was engaged on on the time. (That cookbook, due subsequent yr, seems to bear at the very least a few of Entertaining’s affect.) How a lot Hayden finally paid isn’t clear since she wasn’t made out there for an interview, however it suggests a scorching marketplace for outdated Martha Stewart cookbooks.
With 99 Martha Stewart books on the planet and Quantity 100 out subsequent week, I puzzled: how collectable are they? Individuals gather every thing — Stanley cups (now, Owalas too), tinned fish, Lenox Spice Village jars, Pyrex, restaurant matchbooks — so they have to additionally gather Martha Stewart cookbooks, proper? Based on the booksellers I spoke to for this piece, nevertheless, that’s not essentially the case, partly as a result of Stewart’s oeuvre is so ample.
Despite the fact that the primary version of Entertaining has been “scorching” recently — it was re-released with a brand new cowl in 1998 — “it’s hardly uncommon,” in accordance with the New York Metropolis cookbook vendor Bonnie Slotnick. Slotnick classifies the scenario as “nonsensical,” writing in an electronic mail that “all it takes is a few enthusiastic write-ups in well-liked media (or one TikTok video) to ship hundreds of individuals looking out on-line.” Although this pushes the pricing of Entertaining up, that curiosity inevitably dies down once more: As of this writing, latest eBay gross sales of Entertaining have been extra within the $5-$15 vary. Except for limited-edition releases, Slotnick provides, there’s no cause for Martha Stewart cookbooks to be uncommon or costly.
Certainly, there are waves of curiosity in Martha’s books, in accordance with a spokesperson for ThriftBooks, the most important on-line vendor of used books. Whereas bestsellers like Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook: The Important Information to Caring for Every part in Your Dwelling and Entertaining proceed to drive gross sales (the latter’s have been spiked by the CNN sequence), curiosity in her books in any other case ebbs and flows with winter and the vacations. It additionally picked up with the beginning of the pandemic.
Curiosity in Stewart’s books additionally breaks down geographically, the ThriftBooks spokesperson famous. In comparison with different authors in the identical house, Martha’s books are the preferred within the Northeast and customarily in “blue states,” with Connecticut, New Jersey, and Massachusetts exhibiting a comparatively greater proportion of her books’ gross sales in comparison with the nationwide common. Age additionally appears to play a job: Most curiosity in Stewart’s books comes from younger folks, in addition to the 55+ demographic. The vendor hasn’t offered loads of what it might think about “collectible” objects from Stewart, it notes, doubtless as a result of Stewart continues to be publishing steadily.
Stewart collectors is likely to be a minor contingent, however they actually exist: Based on ThriftBooks, about 20 p.c of consumers who buy Martha Stewart books buy three or extra of her books.
As of this writing, the New York culinary bookstore Kitchen Arts & Letters shares Martha Stewart’s Muffins (2013), Cookie Perfection (2019), and Fruit Desserts (2021) (all three are on backorder). Based on managing accomplice Matt Sartwell, Stewart’s baking books particularly “have all the time had a superb rep[utation] and we inventory them and promote them rather well.” However whereas her older books carry the enchantment of capturing a specific second in meals tradition, “folks don’t come sentimentally in search of copies of Martha Stewart’s [1983] Fast Prepare dinner,” he says.
To Sartwell, it comes down to a couple elements. Within the larger image, the culinary type that lots of Stewart’s older cookbooks embodies “has modified in the identical manner that the way in which Martha attire has modified, and so the meals isn’t fairly as interesting,” he says. As for the weather that do stay interesting, Sartwell provides, a lot of what made Stewart’s meals really feel distinct on the time her books have been printed has since develop into part of the on a regular basis.
Furthermore, if we’re to affiliate accumulating with a completionist mindset — the purpose being to have all of one thing — then Stewart’s compendium would possibly supply its personal challenges. For one factor, her books coated such breadth that it’s unlikely for anyone reader to search out all of them helpful. Many aren’t cookbooks, like Gardening (1991) or Nice American Wreaths (1996). “Should you think about a Park Avenue matron who actually likes the way in which Martha entertains, they might not have a Martha-like backyard to maintain,” Sartwell says.
There may be additionally the truth that by a sure level, Stewart’s books grew to become half of a bigger venture. A Martha Stewart cookbook now not represented a e book written by the grand dame herself, its tales and recipes all gleaned from her mind alone, however from a check kitchen and life-style model. (That mentioned, even Entertaining was dogged by allegations of recipe theft.) Whereas this shift in manufacturing helped make sure that the recipes have been rigorously examined and got here at a gradual clip, it additionally created a way of distance from Stewart.
“I feel it’s one thing of a fantasy of publishers that any person would possibly gather every thing somebody has completed,” Sartwell says. “However at 100 books, I don’t know that there are too many authors on the market whose repute would drive folks to really feel like they needed to personal every thing.”
Entertaining, then, is extra of the exception than the rule. Its affect is outsized. Not solely did its publication mark the start of Stewart’s life-style empire, it additionally coincided with a shift in how cookbooks have been made. Massive, full-color cookbooks, although a given now, have been much less frequent on the time, with publishers pushing cookbooks with small picture inserts as a substitute. By comparability, Entertaining was formidable, photo-heavy, and colourful. This strategy virtually harm its probabilities of publication: A 1991 New York Journal profile of Stewart famous that she’d met resistance from writer Clarkson Potter, who’d instructed both making the e book half black-and-white, or reducing its measurement in half.
In fact, Stewart received that argument and Entertaining’s strategy not solely impressed readers but in addition impressed them. The e book “actually gave folks a way of confidence that they might pull off one thing sophisticated,” Sartwell says. “It confirmed Martha in Laura Ashley attire trying poised and assured, and that was interesting to folks for whom formidable [hosting] was one thing they hadn’t tried earlier than.” Even nonetheless, the final time the store offered Entertaining, it went for a modest $40.
In an look on the Kelly Clarkson Present final yr, Stewart attributed her regular output of books to a bent towards workaholism. Nevertheless, it’s true that she’s additionally slowed her manufacturing in recent times; her final e book was Fruit Desserts, printed in 2021. This hasn’t been a nasty alternative, Sartwell suggests, because it’s prevented her viewers from getting too burned out from yet one more new launch.
When Martha: The Cookbook drops subsequent week, it — together with the brand new Netflix documentary — will doubtless drive up curiosity in, and the costs of Stewart’s outdated books as soon as once more. One would possibly remember, nevertheless, that persistence is sweet for the pockets. There are many books to go round.