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Wednesday, January 15, 2025

Chef E.J. Lagasse’s Information to New Orleans



For all of New Orleans’ cultural riches — its music, artwork, structure, and historical past — nothing tells town’s story fairly like its meals.

“Our meals scene has such a wealthy heritage,” says chef E.J. Lagasse. “And it’s distinctive as a result of you could have hole-in-the-wall po’boy outlets which might be up there with the perfect meal you’ve got had all 12 months.” That’s the fantastic thing about New Orleans, says Lagasse, “You may eat at any restaurant degree on the spectrum and have an unbelievable meal.”

The son of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse grew up splitting time between New Orleans and New York Metropolis and, unsurprisingly, spent plenty of time in restaurant kitchens. He attended Johnson & Wales culinary faculty earlier than coaching in Michelin-starred eating places in London and Stockholm, and now helms his father’s eponymous flagship restaurant. (He additionally collaborated on the brand new 34 Restaurant & Bar, an ode to Emeril’s Portuguese roots with loads of salt cod fritters, caldo verde, and a duck rice dish that’s alone value a go to to New Orleans.) Emeril’s will have fun its thirty fifth anniversary in 2025, with a menu that highlights each traditional and reimagined favorites, like smoked salmon cheesecake with Petrossian caviar and an equal components elegant and epic banana cream pie.

Whereas there’s by no means a foul time to discover town’s greatest eating places, bars, and bakeries, with each Mardi Gras and the Tremendous Bowl on the horizon, now’s a very good time to plan your subsequent go to to NOLA. Right here, E.J. shares his checklist of must-visit stops for muffuletta, beignets, shrimp spring rolls, and extra in New Orleans.

Pho Tau Bay

Courtesy of Pho Tau Bay


This family-run Vietnamese restaurant has lengthy been a Lagasse household staple. “My dad has all the time loved Pho Tau Bay,” says E.J. “I keep in mind consuming it at 4 years outdated, it was a number of the first Vietnamese meals that I had.” The beloved store serves completely executed classics like uncommon beef pho and shrimp spring rolls that even impressed a dish at Emeril’s. Whereas the Lagasse restaurant was closed for a refresh, the workers typically ordered takeout from Pho Tau Bay. “The very last thing we developed for the [new] menu for Emeril’s have been the canapes,” says E.J. Forty orders of spring rolls over the span of months later, he was impressed so as to add an ode to Pho Tau Bay’s traditional, which is now one of many first bites of the multi-course tasting menu on the fine-dining restaurant.

Central Grocery & Deli

Melina Mara / The Washington Publish by way of Getty Pictures


“The OG of OGs in terms of the muffuletta,” says E.J. of this lately reopened establishment. Central Grocery was compelled to shutter within the wake of Hurricane Ida in 2021 however simply made its triumphant return in December 2024. “They have been promoting their muffulettas in another little grocery shops close by, however to have the ability to return to the unique is superior.”

Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar and Parkway Bakery & Tavern

Courtesy of Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar


For po’boys, E.J. recommends two spots: Parkway, not removed from Metropolis Park, and Domilise’s within the Uptown neighborhood. At Domilise’s, strive the off-menu particular: a mixture of fried shrimp and roast beef that was Anthony Bourdain’s go-to order.

Pêche Seafood Grill

Meals & Wine / Cedric Angeles


This Warehouse District seafood spot is thought for its platters of lavish complete fish and icy trays of freshly shucked oysters and plump Gulf shrimp, however E.J. significantly praises a dish by Pêche chef de delicacies and 2024 F&W Greatest New Chef Nicole Cabrera Mills. “Chef Nikki at Peche is doing a beautiful gumbo proper now,” he says of her model, which incorporates a darkish roux and (generally — she alters up the recipe) lump crab meat.

Saint-Germain

Justen Williams / 343 Media / NewOrleans.com


“I’ve had a few actually improbable meals over the past 12 months at Saint-Germain,” E.J. says of the half wine bar, half tasting menu restaurant run by 2021 F&W Greatest New Cooks Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith. “They’re bringing in plenty of very fascinating elements and treating them with plenty of respect.” Additionally, E.J. notes, it’s only a actually enjoyable place to eat.

Acamaya

Courtesy of Denny Culbert


Centered on a up to date Mexican seafood menu with highlights like hamachi “al pastor” tostada with pineapple and tepache, and arroz negro with huitlacoche and squid, Acamaya has been a celebrated addition to the Bywater neighborhood. “I have been tremendous enthusiastic about [2022 F&W Best New Chef] Ana Castro’s restaurant that opened this 12 months,” says E.J. “It’s a particular spot.”

Cafe du Monde

Luke Sharrett / Bloomberg by way of Getty Pictures


Any journey to New Orleans isn’t full with no go to to Cafe du Monde, an establishment for greater than 160 years, for a plate of piping sizzling beignets coated in a thick blanket of powdered sugar alongside a restaurant au lait. “Typically you get a sizzling one, generally you get a frozen one, it is determined by how you are feeling,” says E.J. Put together to be coated in powdered sugar throughout your go to, however E.J. has recommendation for that, too: “The professional tip is to put on a white t-shirt.”

Hansen’s Sno-Bliz

Justen Williams / 343 Media / NewOrleans.com


In relation to sno-balls, {the summertime} deal with made with a mound of finely shaved ice doused in flavored syrups, New Orleans has loads of choices. Lagasse recommends Hansen’s, the unique creator that’s been slinging sno-balls since 1939. “It is about nearly as good as it may well get,” says E.J. “Get the cream of nectar — the pink one which tastes like a fluffy cloud.” The key recipe accommodates strawberry and different intently guarded elements, and whereas Hansen’s is closed for the season, you may nonetheless get a style at Emeril’s — simply earlier than the dessert course a sno-ball trolley seems on the desk with a number of selections of syrup, together with the pink fluffy cloud.

Jewel of the South

Courtesy of Jewel of the South


“Each the cocktail program and the mocktail program at Jewel of the South are on one other degree,” says E.J., who additionally calls the visionary behind the drinks, Chris Hannah, “an exceptionally gifted barman.” The French Quarter establishment was named one of many 2024 World’s 50 Greatest Bars, and is thought its “whimsical New Orleans really feel,” in accordance with E.J. Strive the Brandy Crusta, made with Cognac, curacao, maraschino liqueur, and bitters.

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