When Chanel’s in‑home perfumer Olivier Polge is at work, you’ll not catch a touch of perfume on him. He forgoes carrying fragrance throughout working hours to high quality‑tune his olfactory senses, guaranteeing that nothing interferes along with his inventive course of.
With out the distraction of a private scent, he stays unclouded. This perception was shared by Polge throughout his first go to to Singapore not too long ago, the place he attended a regional occasion celebrating the Chanel N°5 perfume vary.
Since its creation in 1921, the N°5 fragrance has stood as a revolutionary perfume, celebrated not just for its pioneering mix of floral and aldehyde notes, but additionally as the primary fragrance launched by a style home. Polge has since carried this legacy ahead. Amongst his many creations for Chanel is the contemporary and trendy N°5 L’Eau — his tackle the home’s most well-known scent.
Since getting into his position as Chanel’s grasp perfumer in 2015 — following the tenure of his father Jacques — he has crafted 22 new fragrances for the maison, together with this yr’s Comète, the newest addition to the Les Exclusifs de Chanel vary.
Reflecting on his first impressions of Singapore, Polge expressed shock on the metropolis’s lush panorama and tranquillity. “I used to be anticipating a really dense metropolis, nevertheless it’s way more unfold out and greener than I imagined. It’s additionally very calm,” he shared.
In an insightful fast‑fireplace session with GRAZIA Singapore, Polge shares his ideas on the position tradition performs in how perfumes are perceived and obtained, perfume layering and his inventive course of.
As you might need seen, Singapore is a culturally wealthy place, with folks from numerous backgrounds. Do you suppose cultural range influences the perceptions and reception of fragrances?
Olivier Polge (OP): I believe it has a serious influence. I admire range typically, particularly since we stay in such an interconnected world … On the finish of the day, fragrance is a cultural artefact. Whereas Chanel is globally famend, its roots lie in French or European tradition. After we create fragrances, we achieve this from France for the world, however we’ve observed, with out essentially planning it, that some scents resonate extra in particular nations. That’s fascinating to me, particularly once you have a look at the information. [Climate, too,] performs a giant position [in how perfumes are perceived and received]. I lived in New York for 5 years, and the summers there are very popular and humid—one thing we don’t expertise in Europe, the place it’s drier. I realised that sure fragrances really feel extra comfy in a single local weather than one other.
Do you personally imagine in having a signature scent?
OP: Personally, I imagine perfume is tied to 1’s persona. I do imagine in having one signature scent for myself, sure.
How do you are feeling about layering fragrances, which is presently a well-liked means of making a scent distinctive to 1?
OP: I can’t [endorse it], as a result of I create [perfumes] that I take into account completed and [can hold their] personal … However I additionally perceive that there are [cultural nuances]. For instance, I’ve travelled to the Center East, the place there’s a cultural means of fragrancing oneself. A designer by no means is aware of how folks will combine and match the garments they create, and [it’s the same for a perfumer]; that’s one of many surprises I welcome. I wouldn’t layer fragrances myself, however I perceive [why some would choose to do so].
How does Chanel navigate trendy traits whereas preserving its spirit?
OP: Chanel’s energy lies in our full management of the inventive course of—from proudly owning our formulation to sourcing and refining uncooked supplies. Every perfumer passes down their experience, guaranteeing continuity whereas permitting room for evolution. As an example, we’ve partnered with farmers in Grasse to domesticate the highest-quality flowers, even increasing into new crops like tuberose and iris. This meticulous strategy ensures consistency whereas enabling us to discover [new frontiers].
Developments can’t be ignored, however they should be approached thoughtfully. At Chanel, each creation should resonate with our heritage whereas addressing the current second. This steadiness is a energy, permitting us to innovate whereas staying true to our distinctive type. The richer our historical past, the extra freedom we’ve got to reinterpret it.
May you sum up for us your private philosophy in regards to the work you do in a single sentence?
OP: Nicely, in a single phrase, it’d be creation. It’s by no means replica. At Chanel, we’ll by no means identify a fragrance after a uncooked materials. We’re not attempting to breed nature. We’re at all times in a state of transformation. I like transformation. I’d add that to creation—creation and transformation. Two phrases!
This text was first seen on Grazia Singapore.
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