Because it kicked off the ultimate day of Paris Style Week, Chanel had a bonus over final season: After months of hypothesis, the home in December named Matthieu Blazy inventive director of trend actions. The 40-year-old designer is because of be part of the home subsequent month and can present his first assortment in October.
Ending the suspense didn’t make the job simpler for the in-house group charged with delivering one other placeholder assortment. They dutifully zeroed in on a theme, which unfurled from the boxed satin bow despatched with the present invitation to the set: a monumental black ribbon that spiraled towards the roof of the Grand Palais.
Matte satin ribbon trimmed a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket, whereas fairly bows secured the ballon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic high. A trio of clothes got here in a fluttering ribbon print tracing the model’s signature interlocking Cs, whereas cartoony bow cutouts have been edged with pearls on a black sweater and skirt.
Up to now, so predictable. Extra intriguing was the thought of utilizing the bombastic backdrop as a foil for performs on scale, proportion and optical results.
Layers of phantasm tulle fashioned ghostly outlines on tweed fits, together with a pink short-sleeved jacket and shorts overlaid with a sheer ankle-length skirt.
Allover appears to be like performed with superpositions of the identical cloth, to Surrealist impact. As an illustration, a cherry crimson tweed was used for a jacket, wrap skirt and flared pants — in addition to the matching boater hat, gloves, purse and boots.
Among the visible gags got here straight from the playbook of the home’s late inventive director Karl Lagerfeld, who was a genius at channeling the popular culture zeitgeist.
A white minaudière was shrunk to the scale of an egg, whereas pearl necklaces have been blown up and worn as crossbody baggage. Big pearls additionally appeared as heels on black boots that have been certain to change into immediate collectors’ gadgets.
In the meantime, a duo of reverse monochrome twinsets appeared tailor made for superfans Snehal and Jyoti Babani, the Indian sisters who attended the present of their signature matching outfits.
However the lineup took a dowdy flip with variations on Pierrot smocks and saggy sweater clothes. The sack constructions have been jarring in a season when designers have been obsessive about intercourse, from the pole dancers at Stella McCartney to the prosthetic breasts at Duran Lantink.
Judging from the VICs in attendance, there’s a marketplace for consolation dressing with an upscale twist, however catering to current purchasers is just not sufficient. Manufacturers want recent blood to outlive and thrive.
Chanel’s latest collections lack the spark of surprising connections that comes with an outdoor eye. Consider Blazy’s swansong marketing campaign for Bottega Veneta, which paired $8,400 woven leather-based Andiamo baggage with animated stuffed animal beanbags and the soundtrack from “Beverly Hills, 90210.”
With luck, that sort of inventive alchemy will coax the Chanel lady out of her shell.