For over six centuries, the Antinori household has formed the course of Italian winemaking, establishing a legacy constructed on custom, pioneering imaginative and prescient and an unwavering pursuit of excellence. However Marchese Lodovico Antinori has by no means been one to relaxation on heritage alone. From founding Ornellaia and Masseto — two of Italy’s most celebrated wines — to his newest enterprise, Lodovico Wine, he has constantly pushed boundaries, redefining what Tuscan winemaking might be.
On this unique interview, Mr Lodovico Antinori displays on his journey — from remodeling the worldwide notion of Italian wine to embracing sustainability and the evolving tastes of a brand new era. With an unshakable dedication to high quality and rarity, he continues to form the way forward for nice wine, proving that the posh wine trade isn’t just about identify or historical past alone — it’s about imaginative and prescient.
The Antinori household identify is synonymous with centuries of winemaking excellence. How does Lodovico Wine each honour this heritage and carve its personal identification?
I began working with the household enterprise in America when Italian wine had a really distant presence there. This was within the late ’60s, a time when the notion of Italian wine was fairly low. Many wines nonetheless got here in straw-wrapped bottles, and the trade was dominated by French wines for reds and German Rieslings for whites. Italian wines had been seen as second-tier.
That have formed my imaginative and prescient. I realised that Italian winemaking had the potential to evolve past custom and stand on equal footing with the world’s finest wines. Fifteen years later, I stepped away from my household enterprise to create one thing small however of outstanding high quality — one thing that really mirrored my philosophy.
I launched my first impartial venture within the Eighties, aiming to raise the requirements of Italian wine. On the time, many Italian producers had been complacent, sticking to the established order. My purpose was to wake them up, to indicate that we had the land, the local weather, and the potential to do higher. I wasn’t simply one other Antinori — individuals knew my household identify, however additionally they noticed that I had constructed one thing by myself. That impressed many small producers to lift their requirements. Immediately, the standard of Italian wine has improved considerably, and I take pleasure in having contributed to that shift.
Lodovico Antinori and his daughter Sophia – 2022
What was the inspiration behind founding Lodovico Wine, and the way does it differ out of your earlier ventures within the wine trade?
The concept for the wine got here from a winery that was uniquely uncovered to the north. Historically, vineyards are planted dealing with southwest to maximise solar publicity. However with the rising temperatures and local weather change, I believed — why not do the alternative? So I planted the winery dealing with north, the place it could obtain much less direct daylight.
At first, I needed to call it “Vigna Nord,” which implies ‘North Winery.’ However my German agent—one in all my strongest supporters — insisted towards it. “That will be a catastrophe,” he informed me outright. He left my workplace abruptly, and later, I referred to as him to ask why. His response: “You’re getting outdated—you left the reply proper in entrance of you”. I used to be taken unexpectedly as a result of I had by no means deliberate to place my very own identify on the wine. I used to be hesitant and shy about it at first. However then he gave me an ultimatum — he even wrote me a clean cheque and mentioned, “Should you identify it Lodovico, you possibly can fill within the quantity and money it. However in case you insist on calling it Vigna Nord, I gained’t provide you with a single cent”.
Once you’re beginning a venture, funding is crucial, so in the long run, I gave in. That’s how the wine got here to bear my identify. After all, with a private identify comes an important sense of accountability — particularly within the American market, the place placing your identify on one thing means a dedication to high quality. It implies a deep stage of care and involvement. Folks assume I examine each barrel myself, which, to be sincere, I don’t. However I do take the accountability significantly.
What units Lodovico aside out of your earlier initiatives?
The largest distinction is that Lodovico is centred round Cabernet Franc. Earlier than this, with Biserno —which you will be aware of — we labored with a Bordeaux mix, incorporating all of the traditional varieties, together with Petit Verdot. However this venture focuses totally on Cabernet Franc.
That mentioned, the wine we’re consuming in the present day additionally comprises a little bit of Merlot. That’s as a result of our winemaker, Michel Rolland, has a robust desire for Merlot — he simply can’t resist including some to the mix. He’s not as eager on Cabernet Franc as I’m, so we’ve had a couple of debates concerning the percentages. Over time, although, he’s began listening to me extra, and from the 2020 classic onward, we’re decreasing the quantity of Merlot.
Earlier than that, from our first classic in 2007 via to 2019, we used the next share of Merlot — generally 10 to 12 p.c, generally 5 p.c, relying on the 12 months. However shifting ahead, we’re focusing much more on Cabernet Franc to offer the wine a particular persona.
Sustainability is a key matter in luxurious winemaking in the present day. How does Lodovico Wine combine sustainable practices with out compromising on high quality?
We’re not totally biodynamic or natural, however we’re following a set of protocols that can enable a few of our vineyards to transition to natural practices within the subsequent 5 years. That mentioned, it’s not my main focus in the mean time. Sustainability is vital, however my major precedence is at all times high quality. It units an instance within the area. However after all, sustainability comes at the next price. A sustainability-focused strategy is dearer than conventional strategies. For instance, in standard winemaking, you possibly can merely spray chemical substances to take away weeds, however that’s not good for the soil or the roots.
We’ve taken a extra ecological strategy. As a substitute of actively eradicating weeds, we allow them to die off naturally. This implies we don’t must plough as typically or disturb the land unnecessarily. We intention for sustainability, or as we are saying in Italian, ecosostenibilità, however with out essentially adhering to strict natural certification, which requires particular remedies which are expensive and don’t essentially enhance the wine.
For pest management, we now not use pesticides. As a substitute, we use a German-developed resolution that stops bugs from reproducing. It doesn’t kill them — it merely disrupts their reproductive cycle. This manner, the inhabitants steadily declines with out introducing poisonous chemical substances into the winery.
After all, all of those add to the price of manufacturing. Sustainable practices are dearer than the usual viticulture strategies used throughout Italy, which depend on cheaper, standard remedies. Labour can also be a major issue. Whereas many wineries use machines or quick-fix chemical remedies, we require expert staff to are inclined to the vines manually, guaranteeing each step is completed with precision. This stage of element and care is what makes our wines costly — but additionally what makes them distinctive.
The posh wine market is turning into more and more aggressive. What do you consider units Lodovico aside as a collector’s wine?
Amount performs an important function. For instance, Lodovico is proscribed to solely 10,000 bottles per 12 months. And that quantity won’t ever enhance — it’s written right into a contract, even after I’m gone.
There’s at all times the temptation, when a wine is profitable, to provide extra. However I consider that may be a mistake. Collectors and connoisseurs aren’t silly—they’ve refined palates, and so they can instantly detect even the slightest change in high quality. That’s why we stay dedicated to this strict manufacturing restrict. Rarity is a key consider luxurious, and sustaining exclusivity ensures that our wine stays really particular.
One other defining factor is the function of Cabernet Franc in our wine. The potential for getting older is extraordinary. On the planet of luxurious, longevity is a vital assertion. An ideal wine mustn’t solely be drinkable when younger however also needs to enhance considerably over time.
For instance, we not too long ago opened a bottle of Lodovico from 2007 — one of many earliest vintages, when the vineyards had been nonetheless younger. Solely 3,000 bottles had been produced that 12 months, but it has aged superbly. The wine has advanced, gaining depth and complexity with none indicators of decline. That’s what defines a very nice wine: the power to mature gracefully over a long time whereas remaining a pleasure to drink at any stage.
How is Lodovico partaking with the brand new, youthful era of wine drinkers, and what methods are you implementing to attraction to their evolving tastes and preferences?
They need one thing completely different. A lot of them come from rich households, in order that they’ve grown up surrounded by nice wines. However they wish to distinguish themselves, to drink wines that aren’t the identical as what their dad and mom choose.
In the mean time, my wines attraction extra to an older viewers. However I do have a venture within the works for youthful drinkers — a wine referred to as Villa del Nik, which shall be from the 2012 classic. This can be a venture I’m engaged on with my daughter, who’s 25. She shall be extra in tune with the preferences of the youthful era. I consider they (youthful shoppers) choose wines with decrease alcohol content material, wines which are slightly lighter, much less opulent, and extra restrained. The development is shifting away from the daring, extremely concentrated wines that had been as soon as designed to impress the American market.
Previously, American shoppers had been used to consuming whiskey, milk, or virtually nothing else. After they had been first launched to wine, they discovered the style too tannic, too harsh. That’s when Robert Parker — a really well-known American wine journalist — had a serious affect. He satisfied European winemakers, together with the French, to melt their wines. We tailored, making wines with rounder, smoother tannins, and harvesting later to realize riper fruit flavours. That fashion dominated for a very long time.
That leads me to my subsequent query. There’s a rising development of alcohol-free wines, notably within the U.S., pushed by a brand new, health-conscious motion on social media. What are your ideas on alcohol-free wine, and do you suppose it impacts nice wine?
No, nice wine is not going to be affected by that in any respect.
In America, they name this sort of factor a “fad”. Identical to orange wine grew to become a development, alcohol-free wine is one thing that’s gaining recognition with sure teams, notably youthful, health-conscious shoppers. But it surely gained’t have any actual influence on the nice wine world.
With a rising curiosity in wine as a type of funding, do you contemplate Lodovico a wine meant for collectors, traders, or purely for the pleasure of consuming?
We produce wine for pleasure — we wish individuals to drink and luxuriate in it. That’s the core function.
However in actuality, there are collectors who purchase wine as an funding. Some drink it, however others retailer it and promote it later when the value rises. The English are particularly identified for this — they typically purchase 5 circumstances of wine early, promote two circumstances after a couple of years when the worth will increase, and basically benefit from the remaining wine totally free. This was quite common within the Bordeaux market when costs had been booming. Traders would purchase wine early, maintain onto it for 5 years, after which promote at a revenue. Nonetheless, the Bordeaux market has declined not too long ago, so this sort of hypothesis isn’t as profitable proper now.
Do you suppose your wines are fitted to funding in the identical method?
To not the identical extent. Our wines are usually not but established sufficient available in the market for that type of hypothesis.
The primary classic I ever made was bought at public sale as soon as — only one time. That was again in 2001. Then I ended providing it at auctions for some time. However from the 2021 classic, I would begin once more.
Lately, some vineyards in France struggled to make sufficient revenue from wine gross sales alone, in order that they launched tourism experiences — winery stays, guided excursions, and even Airbnb-like lodging on their estates. Do you see this turning into a development in Italy as effectively?
Sure, this idea already exists in Italy. There’s even a authorized framework for it. If a winery turns into a part of this program, they obtain tax advantages and different benefits, however they need to adjust to strict laws. For instance, they’ll’t purchase meals from commonplace distributors; they need to supply from accepted native suppliers. Ideally, they need to develop their very own greens, fruits, and eggs on-site. It’s a good looking thought, however generally it’s tough in observe. If company arrive when sure substances aren’t in season, the winery should nonetheless discover a method to supply them whereas staying throughout the laws.
Nonetheless, this mannequin is extraordinarily in style, particularly in Tuscany, which has turn out to be an iconic luxurious vacation spot. Tuscany attracts guests with robust monetary potential, so even small vineyards can profit. If a pair with a toddler desires an expensive but genuine expertise, they’ll now discover precisely that.
How do you see the function of dwelling areas, such because the one you’ve created, the place the proprietor interacts with the company?
They occupy one ground, pay an inexpensive quantity and stay along with the proprietor, making a type of interactive, communal life-style. This has been particularly profitable with youthful individuals. I feel what they’re doing with that is superb. We did one thing comparable initially, however the usual was so excessive, it ended up costing some huge cash. Now, I hope my nephew is taking good care of it. He’s very tight with funds and needs the stability sheet to be beneficial. He doesn’t perceive how vital it’s to entertain individuals. Even when it’s costly, it’s the one type of promoting we do. After all, it’s not worthwhile for us as a result of we do it at a excessive commonplace, which implies we’d like extra personnel, and that’s costly. So, it price an excessive amount of. My nephew is now specializing in making it a good looking spot as a result of individuals come and go to.
How do you see the function of restricted editions and exclusivity evolving within the nice wine trade?
We at all times produce small batches — about 10,000 bottles, which could be very small compared to different American wineries, which produce a number of thousand circumstances of 12 bottles every. In American phrases, that’s a few thousand circumstances, every case containing 12 bottles. So it’s actually a small operation, not like Romanée-Conti, however nonetheless very small in measurement. We haven’t promoted it a lot — phrase of mouth is the way it spreads. Some individuals prefer it, and so they discuss to their associates. However we haven’t achieved an enormous promotion concerning the rarity. We at all times promote out of the circumstances, although. We haven’t wanted to overpromote as a result of the rarity itself attracts consumers. Our circumstances are costly, however due to the restricted amount, we at all times discover prospects.
How do you see the function of know-how — be it in viticulture, manufacturing, or distribution — shaping the way forward for Lodovico Wine and the wine trade?
The technological facet we use could be very trendy, however we even have a philosophy of minimal intervention. The purpose is to the touch the grapes as little as potential to keep away from stunning them. We’ve discovered that noise can disturb the grapes, so we attempt to decrease it. The French have the same philosophy with their winemaking, the place they emphasise not disturbing the wine an excessive amount of. It’s a bit romantic, but it surely’s additionally about respecting the character of the product. We consider that the much less you disturb the grapes, the higher the ultimate wine shall be.
What does the following decade have in retailer for Lodovico and the world of winemaking?
Within the subsequent 10 years, the vineyards will proceed to age, and that can drastically enhance the standard of the wine. Older vineyards produce higher wine, and ours are solely about 14 or 15 years outdated, in order that they nonetheless have time to mature. We additionally plan to develop into the American market, which we haven’t been in a position to do as a result of we’ve by no means had sufficient wine to produce it. By way of strategic development, we’ll concentrate on making our wine obtainable to collectors in America, which has been a long-term purpose.
With regard to worldwide enlargement, proper now, we’re robust in Europe, particularly Jap Europe. We’ve made nice strides there. Singapore can also be turning into an vital market, nonetheless at current, our gross sales are decrease, however we’re assured that we will increase that quantity to round 300 bottles. Our purpose is to promote roughly 600 bottles there. We even have connections in Hong Kong and Shanghai, the place we’ve had some success. Nonetheless, the rich Chinese language market is at present extra interested by Burgundy wines, notably Pinot Noir. In consequence, we’re seeing a shift available in the market preferences, and we’re adapting to that development.
Lastly, in your individual phrases, describe what makes a “good” wine.
A great bottle of wine is one which has a stability of all its components, in equilibrium. It ought to have depth and persona, bringing out the character of the grapes from which it’s made. It shouldn’t be excessive — simply sufficient to recognise the varietal. For me, class is likely one of the most vital facets of wine. By class, I imply that the wine should be refined. It ought to by no means be too overpowering or too weak. The secret is stability.
For extra on Lodovico wine, head to their web site right here: https://www.lodovicowine.it/en/house.html
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