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Wednesday, December 18, 2024

Tohoku Journey Uncover Japan’s Rugged Coast


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On a current journey to Japan, an area informed me, “Tokyo isn’t Japan…to know Japan you need to exit and discover.” And if you happen to’ve adopted this weblog for some time, you recognize that getting off the crushed observe and exploring a hidden area places me in my blissful place. It’s my favourite method to journey. Once I heard about Japan’s Tohoku area and the brand new Michinoku Coastal Path– I used to be intrigued as a result of I really like discovering new long-distance hikes.  Immediately, this little-known area in Japan was on my radar.

My journey to Tohoku was initially about mountaineering a portion of the Michinoku Coastal Path. Nevertheless, I quickly found that Tohoku’s rugged coast supplied way more than a mountaineering journey.  It was a land of resilient folks, unimaginable seafood, and distinctive cultural experiences that I had by no means encountered earlier than. The area’s intimate really feel and the heat of its folks made it a very distinctive vacation spot.

Japan’s Most Stunning Shoreline That You’ve By no means Heard Of

Paradise discovered can be paradise misplaced in tourism.  Overtourism can occur shortly, and it reaches a tipping level, and abruptly, you’ve gotten too many individuals all going to the identical locations.   Guaranteeing stability is essential. That’s why Japanese tourism hopes to create extra stability by build up tourism choices in lesser-visited areas like Tohoku.  This is among the causes they created the Michinoku Coastal Path, which initially drew me there.  I assume meaning it’s working.

Tohoku, a area recognized among the many Japanese however usually missed by worldwide vacationers, is a hidden gem ready to be found.  With its beautiful Rias Coast, the one rugged shoreline in Japan, it affords probably the most lovely shoreline within the nation, as acknowledged by Japan’s Tourism Board.  This distinctive magnificence is a testomony to the area’s attract.

Whereas Tokyo and Kyoto could be the go-to spots for a lot of guests, Tohoku is a treasure trove ready to be explored by those that search journey and pure magnificence.

Tohoku Map

Map of Tohoku prefectures

Since this text focuses on journey to the Tohoku East Coast, I’m specializing in the Miyagi, Iwate, and Aomori Prefectures. The coastal cities in these prefectures had been reachable by native trains and buses. This shoreline is called the Sanriku Coast – a dramatic, rocky shoreline with numerous bays, cliffs and coves that stretches for over 300 kilometers alongside the Pacific Coast of the Tohoku Area.

What Makes Tohoku Journey Distinctive

Tohoku’s rugged shoreline and low variety of vacationers are two of the issues that make touring there so nice.  The third merchandise, although, is a bit distinctive.  Home and worldwide guests go there as a result of the area suffered considered one of Japan’s most important pure disasters. 

The March 11, 2011, Nice East Japan Earthquake and the following tsunami left a profound mark on the tranquil Tohoku area. Towering waves—some as excessive as 130 ft—surged as much as six miles inland, claiming roughly 20,000 lives and devastating communities. The aftermath of this tragedy required years of effort to clear the rubble and start therapeutic.

Tohoku tsunami wall
A tsunami wall defending the village behind it

Rebuilding Tohoku After the Tsunami

Tsunami warnings tohoku

Over a decade later, they rebuilt (generally relocating) the cities, created new warning methods and constructed extra monumental tsunami partitions.  The Michinoku Coastal Path  (MCT) is among the newest websites/experiences they made to assist the area rebuild emotionally, convey tourism again to the area, and, in flip, add to the economic system of a distressed space. A 1,000 km mountaineering path means revitalization of your entire shoreline, new accommodations, eating places, tourism experiences, and a rebuilt rail line to maneuver folks alongside the coast. 

I used to be stunned to study that even the visiting Japanese vacationers are inquisitive about studying how the Tohoku area has been rebuilt. They rent tour guides to stroll them via sections of the path alongside the Rias Coast and educate them concerning the tsunami. They use it as a studying expertise in order that the youthful era is aware of what they need to and shouldn’t do throughout a catastrophe.

As I hiked alongside the MCT I heard tales of adults and youngsters alike who perished as a result of they had been following incorrect directions from others – although they seemingly knew higher and will have saved themselves.  This was laborious to listen to – but in addition not shocking.

Japan is taken into account a collective society.  They worth group concord, shared duties, and prioritizing the well-being of the neighborhood over particular person needs. There’s a hesitation to behave independently. This worth is deeply embedded in Japanese society, influencing habits, decision-making, and responses to crises. On this case, it value folks their lives.

Tendenko  – A New Cultural Philosophy

The area is now being taught Tendenko. Tendenko is a Japanese idea that emphasizes particular person survival throughout disasters. It teaches that in moments of disaster, folks ought to deal with saving themselves with out worrying about others, trusting that everybody will do the identical. This idea has gained prominence within the area’s post-disaster tradition, influencing habits and responses to crises. It’s laborious to alter a tradition, however in all places I went alongside the coast, I heard about Tendenko.  It’s taught in colleges and talked about in houses, and also you’ll additionally study it if you happen to go to the area. 

Tohoku Tsunami Memorials

A number of memorials commemorating the lives misplaced, the aftermath, and the rebuilding course of are dotted alongside the coast.  It brings your entire catastrophe and the influence on the communities to life. You’d be amiss if you happen to visited the realm and didn’t go to one of many a number of memorials to study extra and join with this space extra deeply. They’re lovely and transferring.

I like to recommend the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum in Rikuzentakata Metropolis.  The constructing and grounds are somber however lovely, and the museum and employees had been phenomenal. See a chronological exhibit of artifacts and images documenting the catastrophe, and listen to guides speak about their private expertise on that fateful day. It additionally consists of a big outside house the place you’ll be able to stroll and ruminate on the facility of nature.  Additionally it is the house to the Miracle Lone Pine Tree – an homage to the one surviving tree of your entire Takata Pine Forest.  It serves as a logo of hope for your entire area.

The area has additionally chosen to honor the reminiscence of the day by leaving a number of buildings as they had been – mangled, twisted, and in rubble. As well as, as you journey across the space, you’ll additionally see excessive water traces marked on buildings.  These markings function a grim reminder of the catastrophe’s scale and the acute water ranges reached.

Discovering a Journey Connection in Catastrophe

I do know this may increasingly not look like a typical place to journey to – however that’s why I cherished it.  In actual fact – I felt nearer to the Tohoku area than another in Japan as I traveled up the coast.  I had heard concerning the tsunami in 2011. Nonetheless, I didn’t totally perceive it till I noticed and skilled the area myself. It was instructional and transferring, drawing me nearer to Japan normally.

That is no completely different than different well-liked journey locations -Hiroshima, Katrina Excursions, the ruins of Pompeii, and Chernobyl. That is all thought-about Catastrophe tourism – a subsection of Darkish tourism (Killing Fields in Cambodia, 9/11 Memorial and Museum, Brazil slum tourism, Auschwitz-Birkenau, and many others) .  If it’s not for you, I perceive. I deal with it as a method to study extra concerning the folks and tradition and take learnings from it that have an effect on how I take a look at and join with the world as a complete.

Tohoku Coast Experiences To not Miss

Not every part in Tohoku is concerning the catastrophe – it’s only a small however significant a part of the area.  There are nice conventional journey adventures and cultural experiences available alongside the coast!  As I hiked among the greatest components of the Michinoku Coastal Path, we additionally had an opportunity to expertise different actions alongside the Tohoku coast. 
Tohoku journey supplies one thing for anybody who enjoys the outside

Jodogahama Kayaking

Jodogahama Seaside is a must-stop in your Tohoku coastal travels.  It’s a part of the Sanriku Fukko (reconstruction) Nationwide Park  , which was created after the Nice East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami as a manner to assist revitalize the area.

Cease on the Jodogahama customer heart, stroll the pathways alongside the seashore, and revel in this scenic space.  It’s best recognized for its uncommon white rock formations; jagged volcanic rocks jutting out of the turquoise waters.  The white pebble seashore is well-liked for locals to sunbathe and swim.  I went kayaking in order that I may get a better take a look at the rock formations. You may simply lease kayaks and SUPs and even go on a coastal boat journey from the seashore.  And, in fact – there’s loads of mountaineering across the seashore and customer heart.  In actual fact, the MCT path goes proper alongside the seashore!

Deal with your self and keep on the completely positioned, luxurious Jodogahama Park Resort.  Perched on high of the cliff above Miyako Bay, you will get an unimaginable view of the rocks and the seashore beneath. The lodging are conventional and smooth, the meals is scrumptious, and the onsen is the cherry on high! This was my favourite resort throughout my time on the Tohoku Coast!

Eat at L’Oreole Tanohata

Chef Katsuyasu Ito
Chef Katsuyasu Ito

Chef Katsuyasu Ito, a French-trained chef who went to culinary faculty in Tokyo, is bringing tremendous eating to the Tohoku Coast at L’Oreole Tanohata. Situated proper on the Michinoku Coastal Path, the superbly designed restaurant with all wooden accents is perched on the coast, giving it unimaginable views and a rugged really feel.

Watching Chef Ito create our multi-course lunch was like watching an artist at work.  I really like open kitchens and I had a lot enjoyable watching the cooking and plating of every intricate domestically sourced dish.  Chef Ito needs to teach guests and locals concerning the abundance of unimaginable meals that comes from this area.  The whole lot he makes is domestically sourced.  He additionally works with the native faculty lunch program, educating children on the area’s substances.

“If I wish to be wealthy and earn a living, then I’d construct a restaurant in one of many huge cities. However that’s not the explanation why I wish to prepare dinner. I wish to assist the neighborhood and convey folks right here.”

Most of his company come from out of city and keep to benefit from the wealthy bounty of the Tohoku Coast. One of many chef’s targets is to guard the smaller communities in Japan as a result of, as he famous,  everybody often leaves and strikes to huge cities.

Like a “three-star restaurant” in a small European village, you’ll be able to get pleasure from a meal that makes probably the most of native assets, together with the view from the window!

Make dinner or lunch reservations at L’Oreole Tanohata.

Glamping on the Tanesashi Coast

Go to sleep underneath the celebs and get up to crashing waves.  The Tanesashi Pure Garden is a uncommon coastal grassland the place lush inexperienced grass grows naturally proper as much as the sting of the Pacific Ocean. This mix of vibrant inexperienced fields and the deep blue sea creates a wide ranging, nearly surreal panorama. The garden is dotted with tents within the evenings as individuals are allowed to camp there. 

You may expertise tenting amongst different outside lovers whereas additionally having fun with a little bit of pampering! Glamping experiences are additionally supplied right here, full with a cushty, heat cot and bedding and a chef who makes dinner and breakfast for you on the garden!
Study extra about reserving your tent right here.

Ebiking in Rikuzentakata Metropolis

This metropolis was rebuilt after the tsunami and pushed again from the coast.  Nevertheless, they didn’t simply push it again; they created it on larger floor. Primarily they created a disaster-resistant city by elevating the peak of the land they constructed on and transferring the residences to larger floor.  Town and area had been one of many hardest hit alongside the coast.

Lease a bicycle or take part in a motorcycle tour that may be organized on the Rikuzentakata Bussan Middle related to the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum. It’s a good way to get round this bike-friendly area.  The tour will take you round among the tsunami destruction, however you’ll additionally cycle out into the countryside via quiet rice fields and out to the scenic coast.

biking tohoku

Kessenuma Brewers Desk Sake Tasting Dinner

Take pleasure in a singular pairing dinner the place company can study concerning the sake, native seasonal meals, and seafood. Style dishes made with seafood caught in Kesennuma. Every dish is accompanied by a choice of native sake from Otokoyama Honten, an area sake brewery, for a pairing distinctive to Kesennuma. You may determine to have the tasting dinner or dinner and an added tour of the sake brewery.

Kessenuma Bay
The restaurant appears out on Kessenuma Bay

Tohoku Coast Excursions

Suppose I’ve swayed you to think about visiting the Tohoku coast, and you might be on the lookout for somebody to do the entire planning for you. In that case, you’ll wish to try a few of these excursions within the area.

Ottsworld Small Group Climbing Tour

I’ve put many of those experiences into my small group tour that takes you alongside the highlights of the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Meet locals, study concerning the tsunami, and actively discover the attractive  Tohoku shoreline.

Ottsworld small group tour Tohoku Japan
Be part of me in Tohoku in 2025!

Oku Japan Self-Guided Climbing Tour

This primarily covers the northern a part of the Tohoku coast and sticks primarily to mountaineering the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Nevertheless it consists of most of the areas I lined above.  They’ve curated the most effective components of this path, permitting you to stroll via probably the most memorable areas earlier than persevering with onto the following part through prepare, bus, and taxi.
Oku 7 Day Self Guided Climbing Tour
Ottsworld Low cost –get 5% off any Oku Japan tour with code OTTSWORLD5

Tohoku Emotion Practice Tour

If mountaineering isn’t your jam, try this day by day prepare tour alongside the Sanriku Coast.  TOHOKU EMOTION runs on the Hachinohe Line (Hachinohe Station to Kuji Station), which runs proper alongside the coast. The prepare slows down on the most scenic spots in order that passengers can totally respect the surroundings.  However better of all is, it is a foodie prepare.  This restaurant prepare options an open kitchen the place you’ll be able to even watch the meals being ready. Take pleasure in a menu that includes native Tohoku meals whereas having fun with the coastal views.
Reserve a spot on Tohoku Emotion Practice Tour

Tohoku Emotion
Tohoku Emotion Practice

The right way to Get to Tohoku

The simplest method to get to varied components of Tohoku is by prepare. The Shinkansen (bullet prepare) is my beneficial manner of touring from Tokyo. You will get a regional rail go that gives limitless journey within the Tohoku area on designated trains. The JR East Cross consists of Tokyo, the Tohoku area, and surrounding areas.

The JR East Cross affords limitless rides on JR buses and trains touring on the JR traces Tohoku together with the Tohoku Shinkansen.

Try your choices for the JR East Cross or Complete Japan passes if you happen to plan to journey to different areas.

JR East Rail Pass

Sendai metropolis in Miyagi prefecture is taken into account the main gateway to the Tohoku area. It affords straightforward connections to coastal cities through prepare or bus. It takes lower than 2 hours to get from Tokyo to Sendai. When you attain a significant metropolis like Sendai, you need to use native trains or buses to entry smaller coastal cities alongside the shoreline

The Most Highly effective Wave in Tohoku

Some of the impactful cultural experiences I skilled in Tohoku was the ‘Tokhoku wave.’  This wave has completely nothing to do with the tsunami; it’s a easy wave goodbye.  In Tohoku, it’s a cultural certainty that the resort employees will come exterior and wave goodbye to you.  Not solely the accommodations however the tour guides, customer heart workers, restaurant homeowners, and generally the cooks – everybody within the hospitality area will come out and bid you goodbye like I’ve by no means skilled earlier than.

This gesture is crammed with gratitude and heat, usually carried out with such enthusiasm that it turns into a jubilant, two-handed movement. What stood out most was its exceptional persistence—it continues till you’re solely out of view!

The Tohoku wave will most actually draw you even nearer to this area. The wave looks like a surge of pleasure carried via the air, embodying appreciation, a heat farewell, an invite to return, and a deep respect for others. It’s an prolonged goodbye of tsunami proportions. You may’t assist however really feel the jubilance and gratitude they’re providing you with.  You may’t assist however wish to come again and expertise the Tohoku coast once more.

Japan

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